Before leaving Cusco, we checked out the museum of pre-Columbian art. There was a good range of pottery, metal and wood artefacts, including the drinking vessel that forms the title of this issue. We also had a chocolate-making course at the Museo de Cacao, which is more of a cafe and chocolate factory than a museum. It was really good, and we learned the full process, ending in our own chilli flavoured chocolate to take away.
From Cusco, it was back to Arequipa to meet our friend Yee who came down from Trujillo in northern Peru for a week. She was delayed by protests, which continued the following day as well, with people marching down the street outside our hostel. They were protesting against a law change that would axe cushy local government positions in favour of new ones that actually involved work. After Sarah had recovered from a short fever we went over to the Colca Canyon, just north of Arequipa and the world's second largest canyon at 3100m deep. The worlds first deepest is right next to it. It was a 3am start to cross the 4800m Mirador des Volcanes and into the canyon to see the condors soaring past us at the first lookout. We were amazed at how big the were, and probably lucky to see so many of them. We reached Cabanaconde mid morning and set off down towards the oasis at the bottom of the canyon. Yee and fellow Peace Corps volunteer Steven reached the oasis, but we turned back due to the heat, along with another volunteer whose innaproproate shoes broke half way down. The evening saw good pizza and pisco-based beverages, and then followed an early start to prepare a makeshift birthday cake for Yee, by carving a distinctly average cake into a personalised one, complete with candle made from some tourist brochures. Then it was back to Arequipa to celebrate Yee's birthday at a great restaurant with an amazing alpaca curry.
Next day we got a bus to Puno, on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca, apparently the world's highest navigable lake at 3810m. The following day was spent on a boat trip to the Uros Islands, made from floating mats of reeds 3m thick. It was great to see how people lived on these man-made islands, and we got a short trip on a canoe made of reeds. Then it was a 2 hour boat ride to Taquille Island, further out into the lake, where we took a short walk up to the main square, passing locals with traditional clothing and an assortment of farm animals. Yee left at 2am to return home; it was sad to see her go, as it had been great to catch up with her for the preceeding week.
The next journey was by bus to La Paz. This involved the most uneventful border crossing imaginable. We just walked into a small village and got stamped into Bolivia at a tiny desk. The process took about 5 minutes and was free - for the US citizens on our bus this took half an hour and cost them a substantial fee. We then arrived in La Paz and were immediately unimpressed, a feeling which has continued for our stay here. After the great time we had in Peru, Bolivia was always going to struggle to compete. But they say every cloud has a silver lining, and this came in the form of our friends Tina and Hamish who we met up with and had some great Mexican food and a good catch up. We visited the world's worst park, containing virtually no vegetation despite being denoted as a green area on the city map.
Today we visited Tiwanaku, the ruins of a pre-Inca capital one hour from La Paz. The Lonely Planet book says that 'visitors fresh from Peru will be disappointed', and they were correct, although it was interesting to learn about a civilization that existed in this area for 2700 years, helping us to understand the Inca story that we leaned about in Peru a bit better. Our guide, although no 'Cocaman', gave some insight into the society that was based around 'harmony, unity, reprocity and equality'. As we noted with the Inca culture, many aspects of their religion make good sense and are remarkably simple.
A soaring condor
Us hiking in the Colca Canyon
With Yee in the Colca Canyon
Dinner at the hostel
Enjoying the trip, Lake Titikaka
Uros floating islands, Lake Titikaka
Farm terraces, Isle Taquille, Lake Titikaka
Dave at Tiwanaku
Hello dear friends!
ReplyDeleteNice informative post, as usual. I appreciate the update, and love seeing my name in print, no less :) It was a fantastic week we spent together, and I'm glad you could sum it up so eloquently here. (We need not remember the less finer moments. Ha ha.)
It's also wonderful to hear that other countries pale against Peru but hopefully you'll find some nice place soon to pick up the spirit of traveling again. (Plus I need some motivation to travel around South America as well.)
Keep up the good blogging!!